Sirpur-Chanda Gond Dynasty

c.1310 AD - 1750 A.D: Sirpur-Chanda Gond Dynasty of Gondwana Kingdom

Founder : Kol Bhill or Kol Bheel or Kolkhil 

Capitals : Sirpur (modern Komaram Bheem Asifabad district, Telangana), Ballarsha, Chanda (Chandrapur district, Maharashtra)

Languages : Gondi language is known as ‘Koyator’ among Gonds. Southern Gondi, Adilabad Gondi, Northern Gondi, Aheri Gondi are variants of the language.
Religion : Brahmanical Hinduism or Cult of the Persa Pen (clan deities); ancestor spirit worship
Royal Emblem : Lion and Elephant
Family Name: Singh, Shah
Sirpur-Chanda Gond Kingdom flourished along with Kakatiyas, Mususnuru, Recharla Padmanayakas, Bahmani, Golkonda, Moghul and Asaf-Jahi dynasties.

The term ‘Gond’ is derived from Telugu ‘Konda’ which refers to a hill. Tribal communities living in hills of central India are called Gonds. They also call themselves Koitur / Koya, or “the ones who come from the green mountains”. They may be found in Madhya Pradesh, Maharashtra, Chhattisgarh, Telangana, and Odisha. They are one of the largest tribal communities in India with a population of over three million as per 2011 census records. Their presence is widely divided across central India. They were classified as Raj-gonds, Khatola gonds, Madia gonds, Dhur gonds, Dadve gonds, Mokasi gonds, Gaita Gonds, Koyas, etc. Raj Gonds belong to the ruling class among them.
Adilabad in Telangana speak Gondi influenced by Telugu language. So, one may understand that ‘Gondi’ today refers to those who speak Gondi language. Gondi language is known as ‘Koyator’ among Gonds.

In Telangana the Raj Gonds are mostly confined to Adilabad district, though a few groups can be seen in adjoining Karimnagar district. They have spread up to borders of Maharashtra state.
The Rajgonds finally established their four kingdoms through their distinct dynasties Mundla-Gurrah, Kherla, Sirpur-Chanda and Deogarh the fifth dynasty was established at Warangal.

Adilabad based kingdom spread across Adilabad district of Telangana, Chandrapur and Bhandara districts in Maharashtra state. The rulers were known to have developed systematic irrigation channels & refined revenue system.

Between the 14th and the 18th centuries, three main Gond kingdoms existed; Garha-Mandla occupied the upper Narmada Valley, Deogarh-Nagpur occupied the Kanhan River and upper Wainganga River valleys, and Chanda-Sirpur occupied present-day Chandrapur, Gadchiroli, and eastern Adilabad districts.

 Kol Bhill or Kol Bheel or Kolkhil
According to the local Gond traditions, a hero known as Kol Bhill or Kol Bheel rose among them whose name is a curious combination of the names of two other aboriginal races (Kols and Bhils), that the Southern Gonds or Sirpur-Chanda Gonds owe the beginnings of their rule. A man of great strength and wisdom, he first welded the Gond tribes together, and taught them the elements of civilisation. He gathered the scattered Gond tribes and formed them into a sort of nation, teaching them the extraction of iron from iron ore and other elements of civilization.

He led the Gonds against the Naga tribals of Mana Dynasty of Wairagarh of present-day Maharashtra, who had dominated the region for about 200 years. After years of warfare the Manas fell to the Gonds, who replaced them.

According to Gond legends, a Gond chief, Bhim Ballal Singh, organized the Gonds and established his rule in Sirpur in 870 AD. The legend also names 19 Gond rulers.

Bhim Ballal Singh
His capital was at Sirpur, on the right bank of the Wardha river, and his chief stronghold was the fortress of Manikgarh, in the hills behind Sirpur. For the first eight generations these Gond kings reigned at Sirpur, in the modern State of Telangana. 

But the Manas fort of Manikgarh in the high ranges of the hills remained

Kharja Bhallal Singh 

Son of Bhim Ballal Singh

Hira or Heera Singh 

Conspicuous amongst these rulers was Hir Singh the grandson of Bhim Ballal Singh. Brave in war and wise in administration he was the first to persuade his wild fellow-countrymen to cultivate the land. To him is attributed some- thing like a rudimentary land-revenue system. First to levy tax on occupied lands.

Andia Bhallal Singh

Andea son of Heera Singh came to rule after his father and harassed people by increasing taxes. People revolted against him and died very early. 

Talwar Singh
Andea's son Talwar Singh succeeded his father. He was a good ruler, gave relief and freedom to people who were harassed under his father. His minister and chief of forts misued his confidence in them and harassed people and increased taxes again. They created their own army and got ready to declare indolence. Talwar singh could not control them and made his son Kesar Singh ruler of the kingdom and retired.

Kesar Singh
As Kesar Singh was courageous, he fought battles with the chiefs of forts who turned against his father and suppressed them. He reduced taxes and focussed on agriculture sector and provided irrigation facilities like ponds and dug drinking water wells. He also introduced administrative reforms again and gained the respect of the people.

Dinkar or Dinakar Singh
Dinakar Singh son of Kesar Singh, succeeded him. He was a patron of literature and arts and patronized several musicians and Marathi scholars of Maharashtra. His period was called as the golden era of Gondwana Kingdom. The culture of the Gond court improved. Though a self-indulgent character he was in some respects more enlightened than his predecessors. Gond bards flocked to his capital at Sirpur and pundits acquainted with Marathi, were encouraged to settle there.

Ram Singh
On his death his son Ram Singh succeeded him. Of him it is writte " Just and truthful in his intercourse with his subjects and daring and successful as a soldier. Ram Singh governed the kingdom righteously and enlarged its bounds. 

To increase its security he erected several hill-forts on the south-west, and maintained a chosen band of warriors called ' Tarvels' or Tarvekas or Tadavel. These men had eaten the * taru ' (a rare orchid) with certain ceremonial obser- vances, and were supposed. to be invulnerable. To each of his Tarvels the King made grants of land."

Ahmed Shah of the Bahamani empire attacks his kingdom and invests Fort Mahur, capturing Kalamb. This results in the massacre of many Hindus.

1405 AD - 1437 AD - Surja Ballal Singh alis Ser Shah
Ram Singh was succeeded by his son Surja Ballal Singh, who is one of the most romantic figures of old Gondwana. Handsome in person, and a lover of adventure he began his princely career by some years of wandering. After visiting Benares, the holy city of Hinduism, he journeyed to Lucknow, where he devoted himself to the study of war and song. His troubadour- like existence in Oudh, however, was cut short in a rather unpleasant manner. The looting pro- pensities of his Gond escort having reached the ears of the Emperor at Delhi, orders went out for the Gond prince's arrest. This was no easy matter, as his brave Tarvels were ever watchful of their master, and on several occasions proved more than a match for the imperial troops, who were sent from Delhi to arrest him. One day, however, when wandering near Lucknow, without his escort, BaUal Singh was captured, and carried off to Delhi, where he was kept in close confine- ment. Horrified at^ the capture of their brave prince, his escort of Tarvels hastened back to Gondwana to break the evil tidings at the Gond capital of Sirpur. Then it was that the " tocsin " resounded throughout the forest lands of Chanda, and the Tarvels were siunmoned by Jarba, the regent, to come speedily to the rescue of Ballal Singh. Meanwhile things had taken a turn for the better with Surja Ballal Singh. As he wiled away the weary hours of his captivity in song, it fell out one day that the Emperor's lovely daughter passing by that part of the palace where he was confined, heard him singing. Desirous of seeing the prince who could sing so well, she persuaded the Emperor to send for him. The result of this interview was just what Ballal Singh must have desired. Struck by his princely bearing the Emperor enquired whether Ballal Singh could fight as well as sing. On the Gond prince replying that he only longed for an opportunity of showing his skill in battle the Emperor allotted to him the difficult task of subduing the fortress of Mohan Singh which his own generals had failed to take. This Rajput prince had incurred the Emperor's displeasure by refusing to give his beautiful daughter to the imperial harem. Hardly had Ballal Singh accepted this honour- able tads^ and before he had time to start for Gondwana where he was about to raise an army of Gonds^there appeared before the gates of Delhi the Gond regent Jarba and an army of Tarvels and other Gonds, bent on the rescue of their prince. On learning the changed condition of affairs and that their prince was now a commander in the Muslim armies Jarba gladly agreed to accompany the expedition. Ten thousand picked soldiers from the imperial troops were added to the force, and Ballal Singh was soon on his way to the rebelious State. The campaign was a brief and successful one. The Tarvels, under the leadership of their prince, performed miracles of valour, stormed the fortress, slew the Rajah, and captured his widow and daughter.

Then follows the romance of the story. The beautiful widow implored the chivahous Surja Ballal Singh to save her and her daughter from the imperial harem and he overcome by her charms rashly undertook to do so. His task was by no means an easy one but Surja Ballal Singh eventually devised a plan by which he succeeded in deceiving the Emperor and acquiring the ladies for himself. A rumour was started by his orders among his troops, that his eldest son — a beautiful boy — had just arrived in camp. Disguising the beautiful young Rajputni princess in boy's dress, he placed her on the state elephant on which he himself rode triumphantly into Delhi. Proceeding to the imperial palace he announced his arrival and craved the audience of the Emperor. The Emperor seated on his throne in the Diwan-i-Khass welcomed the victorious prince, and taking the beautiful child on his knee addressed him as his dear child. Then turning to Ballal Singh he asked of him : " Where, O Prince, is the fruit of thy victory ? " " Your Majesty holds her in your lap," replied the Gond prince, " and as you have called her ' Your dear child ' she can be nothing else to you.*' What the Emperor really felt about this trick which Surja Ballal Singh had played on him we are not told. His honour, however, was now involved, and he at once renounced all claim to the Rajput ladies, who later on accompanied the Gond prince to his capital at Sirpur. It speaks well for an autocrat like the Emperor of Delhi that in spite of this act of deception he was ready to confer on Surja Ballal Singh a dress of honour as a reward for his bravery. The title of Sher Shah was also conferred on him, so that after his return from Delhi he was no longer known as Surja Ballal Singh, but as Sher Shah Ballal Shah. Readers of Gond records cannot fail to be struck by the fact that while the earlier rulers of the Northern and Southern Gond dynasties are styled " Singh " (the Rajput title for a ruler), the later rulers are styled " Shah," an abbreviated form of Padishah, the Muslim term for a ruler. Doubtless the change of title merely marked the decline of early Rajput influence, and the ascendency of the Moghul power.

1472 AD - 1497 AD : Khandkia or Khandkya Ballal Shah
Changed Capital from Sirpur to first Ballarsha and later to Chanda.
On the death of the Surja his son Khandkia Ballal Shah came to the throne. Suffering constantly from ill-healthy it seemed hardly possible that his reign would add any lustre to the southern house of Gond kings. And yet, strange though it may seem, it was this very ill-health of their ruler which was destined to bring about a change, which did so much to strengthen the position of the Southern Gond kingdom. Khandkia's queen was a woman of more than ordinary discernment and decision of character. In her anxiety for his health she urged him to abandon the home of his ancestors at Sirpur, and to seek a healthier and more secure capital on the opposite side of the Wardha river. Acting on her advice, the Gond king moved his capital to a site on the high banks of the left bank of the Wardha river which still bears his name. There he built the picturesque fortress of Ballarshah — now partly in ruins — which commands a splendid view of the river and a wide sweep of Deccan country. Still suffering from his disease, he spent much of his time in the saddle, exploring the surrounding country, and hunting its game. It was while engaged on one of his hunting expeditions that the event occurred which led to the founding of the city of Chanda. Riding one day some ten miles from Ballarshah he became extremely thirsty, and while walking his horse up the dry bed of a small river, to his great joy discovered a small pool of water in its rocky bed. Dis- mounting he greedily drank the cool water, and bathed his face and hands in the pool. That night on his return, to Ballarshah, he slept as he had not slept for years. In the morning when he awoke his queen noticed that the swellings and tumours which had disfigured his handsome face and body for some years had almost vanished. In her delight she questioned him closely about the pool in which he had bathed, and being convinced that there was more in it than ordinary water, she implored Ballal Shah to take her over to it that very morning. On reaching the spot orders were at once given to have all the grass and jungle removed from around the pool, when, to the wonder and delight of the king and queen, as well as to the assembled court, five deep footprints of the sacred cow were seen in the solid rock, each filled with an unfailing supply of water. Further enquiry made it dear that this spot was none other than the resting- place of the great god Achaleshwar "The Immovable One.'' Further bathing in its sacred waters soon re- stored the king to complete healthy and removed all his bodily disfigurements. Not long afterwards to confirm this great discovery^ the god Achaleshwar appeared in a night vision to the happy king. Possessed of a genius for taking hints from either gods or men, she made it quite dear to the king that the god Achaleshwar expected him to build a temple over the sacred pools in his honour. Plans of the temple were speedily prepared, stone was quarried, the foundations were laid with due ceremony, and before many months the temple of Achaleshwar was rising from the ground, a temple which still stands, after 500 years, in memory of Khandkia Ballal Shah's restoration to health and happiness. While this temple was in process of construe^ tion, another event occurred which was to lead to the founding of the city of Chanda. It was the king's custom to ride over from Ballarshah from time to time to see how the work at the temple progressed. On his rides he was invariably accompanied by a faVourite dog. One day when riding back to Ballarshah, and while dose to the temple, a hare darted out of a bush, and strange to rdate began to chase his dog. The dog fled in wild terror with the hare in close pursuit. Astonished at the sight, the king followed the chase as closely as he could. At times, with a view of shaking of his pursuer, the dog ran in wide circles, while the hare took a shorter and more grag course. And so the race continued until both the animals were nearly exhausted. Then when they were approaching the place Where the race had begun, after a circular chase of nearly seven miles, the dog in wild desperation turned on the hare, and after a sharp struggle killed it. Approaching the dead hare, the Gond Rajah observed for the first time that on its forehead was a strange white mark or " tika." Full of his strange adventure he rode back to Ballarshah to tell the story to his sympathetic queen. Again her genius penetrated into the inner meaning of this mysterious occurrence. It was clearly an omen sent by the gods that Khandkia Ballal Shah was again to change his capital, and build a fortified city around the temple of Achaleshwar. The chase was but the gods own method of town- planning. The walls of the city must be built over the tracks of the sacred hare — strong bastions must be built at the places where the dog had made his circular detour — and special fortifications would be needed where the hare had closed with the dog, and also where the dog had slain the hare; for these would always be danger zones in the new city. Thus was begun the city of Chanda, or Chandrapur, which, according to some, derives its name from the moon, and according to others from the white spot on the hare's forehead,

1497 AD - 1522 AD: Heer Shah
Khandkia Ballal Shah was succeeded by his son Heer Shah, in whose reign the country prospered. Like his remote ancestor, Hir Singh of Sirpur, his mind was bent on the improvement of agriculture in South Gondwana. Calling the trusty Tarvels to a banquet, he urged on them the duty of clearing and cultivating the lands which his grandfather had bestowed on them. To every one who cleared his lands of forest and jungle, was offered the rights of ownership, whereas those who through laziness and apathy refused to do so, were duly warned that their lands would be confiscated. Nor was Hir Shah content with merely issuing orders on these subjects. From time to time it was his custom to tour throughout his wild State, for the purpose of seeing for himself how his orders had been obeyed. Boundaries were then marked out^ and ** sanads,' or rights of tenure, were formally bestowed on worthy land- holders. Special rewards also were given to those who had constructed tanks on their prqperty — and those who had made irrigation channels or canals were often given all the land which their waters reached. In this way much of the wild country was brought under cultivation, and numbers of the migratory Gonds were drawn into the quiet life of the agriculturist. It is to Hir Shah in particular that the Chanda district owes so many of its splendid tanks. Once a year all landowners appeared before the Rajah at Chanda to pay their rents and exhibit their ploughs and other field implements. By this means a rough calculation of the value of their property was made. In Hir Shah's reign the massive gates of Chanda, with their quaint emblem of Gond sovereignty —the elephant helpless in the grasp of a gigantic tiger/' which resembled the mastodon of pre- historic days, were completed. To him also belongs the honour of building the citadel and the palace, parts of which still remain, though degraded to the less noble uses of a jail and police station I of Hir Shah it is specially recorded that he paid tribute to no foreign king, so that any over-lordship on the part of the Bahmani kings of the Deccan.

1522 AD - 1542 AD : Bhuma and Lokba

As Hir Sah had no sons his widow Hirabai adopted Bhuma and Lokba as his successors from the Gond family at Movad .
On his death his two sons Bhuma and Lokba jointly ruled the kingdom, according to a scheme laid down by their father. Fortunately no jealousy or rival ambitions were felt by either of them. Those were merry days in Chanda, like the days of Good Queen Bess in England. In the summer season the various Gond chieftains and headmen waited on their princes, with bodies painted in divers colours, and adorned with various ornaments, such as peacocks' feathers, beetles' wings, tiger and panther sldns, and the horns of the young bison. Each headman brougt with him specimens of the various products found on his estate, both animal and vegetable and the festivities concluded with a great banquet at the royal palace. There was a pleasing diversity among these old Gond rulers of Chanda. Some were stem warriors full of ambition to extend their territories ; while others were more peacefully inclined, who won their triumphs in the devdopment of the resources of their forests and jungles.

1542 AD - 1572 AD : Kam Shah
Kam Shah, the grandson of Hir Shah, belonged, however, to another and less conunon type of ruler. Thoughtful and religious, he was from the first strongly attracted to the Hindu religion. A lover of its sacred books, Brahmans and Pandits soon flocked to his kingdom, and were rewarded with fields and villages free of rent. Lingas of Mahadeo were set up in many places, new temples built and old temples restored. Justice, too, was administered as never before. Before his days no king in South Gondwana ever dreamt of interfering in the disputes of his subjects, and every ntian was his own judge and high-executioner. If anyone had appealed to the king for justice when their relations had been murdered, the king had but one reply, ''Slay your enemy." In Kam Shah's days those state of things was no longer tolerated. Justice was evenly administered, and habitual offenders were banished from the State. Falsehood and perjury woe punished with the utmost severity, and men dwelt securely under the shadow of their vines and fig-trees.

1572 AD - 1597 AD : Babaji Ballal Shah
Seldom is any mention made of these jungle kingdoms in the annals of the Imperial Court at Delhi but so prosperous and important had Southern Gondwana become at this period that in the Ain-i-Akbari or Chronicles of Akbar it is recorded of Babaji Ballal Shah Kam Shah's son that he paid no tribute to Delhi and possessed an army of 10,000 cavaliy and 40,000 infantry." In his reign the city of Wairagarh— the capital of their hereditary foes was added to the kingdom of Chanda.

1597 AD - 1622 AD : Dhundia Ram Shah
On his death , he was succeeded by his son , Dhundia Ram Shah ; it was during his reign that the city - walls surrounding Chanda were completed and , as such , inaugurated by him with due ceremonies , which included , among other things .

1622 AD - 1640 AD : Krishna Shah
Son. Extended territory to Nagpur.
The custom of sacrificing cows to the gond god pharsa pen was abolished by him and it was substituted with goat.
1637 A.D - In January of 1637, Deogarh was invaded by Khan-i-Dauran joined by Krishna Shah of Chanda, who had an enmity with the Deogarh kings since the reign of Jatba. Kok Shah was defeated in the siege of the Nagpur fort and submitted to Khan-i-Dauran on 16 January 1637.

1640 AD - 1691 AD : Bir ShahBir Shah discontinues tribute to the Moghuls following the house arrest of Shah Jahan, but Aurangzeb sends an army under the command of Diler Khan to attack the Gonds, forcing them to sue for peace.

Bir Shah, one of the most distinguished princes of Chanda, had given his daughter to Durgpal, a prince of the royal house of Deogarh. Durgpal, who most probably had never seen the princess till the day of his marriage, seems to have taken a violent dislike to his bride, and to have insulted her in some inexcusable way. Bir Shah in wild anger vowed that he would never rest till he had placed the head of the ntiiscreant Durgpal on the top of the shrine of the great goddess Kali at Chanda. A bloody battle ensued, and in its earlier stages everything went well with the Moslem Gond king of Deogarh. Bir Shah was on the point of being captured, when drawing the sacred sword jof his house, and with a loud voice invoking the aid of Maha Kali, he rushed on Durgpal, and with one blow deprived his son-in-law of his head. After the death of their prince the army of Deogarh lost heart and fled, and Bir Shah returned with his triumphant army to Chanda. And to-day, high up on the roof of the lofty temple of Maha Kali, which lies outside the city walls of Chanda on its southern side, one may see a head carved in stone gazing away northwards to Deogarh, which recalls the story of the unfortunate Durgpal.

Bir Shah's own end was even more tragic than that of his son-in-law. It came to him on the day of his second marriage. There is an old Indian custom that part of the bridegroom's duty on the marriage day is to fetch the bride from her father's house to his own. For some years there had been at Bir Shah's court a Rajput named Hiraman, renowned for his skill at arms and believed to be the possessor of a magic sword. More than once Bir Shah had asked this rather mysterious person to reveal to him the secret of his sword but to no purpose. And for the last time on this happy day, before the royal procession set out to the bride's house, he again asked him, half in banter, to explain to him the secret. Hitherto silent and sullen, Hiraman suddenly burst forth into a fierce passion, and before the courtiers could intervene, killed the king, and then killed himself. So perished Bir Shah, one of the bravest and best of the Gond kings of Chanda. And to mark the deep sense of loss at his tragic death, the noblest of all the tombs in Chanda was raised over his grave, close to the temple of Achaleshwar.

1691 AD - 1735 A.D - Ram Shah

Famous for wisdom and uprightness was Ram Shah, one of the last kings of Chanda, that it is reported of him that when Raghuji Bhonsla, the Maratha leader, visited Chanda, with a view to seeking a pretext for a quarrel, he ended his visit by almost worshipping him as a god. " Well would it have been, so Canon Wood writes in his article on Chanda, 'if the fast failing thread of the Gond rule had been severed at Ram Shah's death."

1735 AD - 1751 A.D - Neelkanth Shah

For Ram Shah's son and successor, Nilkanth Shah, was an evil and cruel ruler, who dismissed his father's most trustworthy councillors, ground down his subjects, and interfered foolishly and needlessly in the political disputes of Deogarh. And all the time the Maratha foe was but waiting for his opportunity, and when he again approached the gates of the royal city of Chanda, it was not by force of arms, but by the treachery of a discontented people, that he triumphed.

1751: Nilkanth Shah tries to throw off the power held by Raghuji Bhosale over the Gonds, but is defeated. The Gonds are forced to accepted the overlordship of Raghuji Bhosale, Maratha ruler of Nagpur, and are reduced to holding just Ballarshah, while Chandrapur is annexed by Raghuji Bhosale. Nilkanth Shah makes an attempt at rebellion but is imprisoned, ending the Gond dynasty of Chandrapur. Chandrapur becomes fully part of the Berar dominion of the Maratha Bhosales.

Certainly the achievements of the southern house of Gondwana were quite remarkable. "Originally but petty chiefs of a savage tribe, they spread their kingdom over a wide stretch of country, reclaiming much of the forest land, peopling them with a prosperous people and keeping their country free from the foreign invader. And when at length they passed away, they left a well-governed kingdom, prosperous to a point which has not since been reached.

Gonds built 21 forts at Chennur, Asifabad, Laksettipet, Bodh, Adilabad, Utnoor, Sirpur, Tandur, Manikghar, Ballaharsha, Chandrapur, Yatmaz, Nirmal, Jakut and Khanapur. The ruins of these forts can be seen today at many places.

At least 20 garhis or minor forts dot the expansive tribal heartland of Adilabad,Komaram Bheem Asifabad,Mancherial and Nirmal (all constituting old Adilabad).

Among the must-visit garhis are the one at Sirpur (T) where only the main gate of the fort stands today and some of its innards.


https://archive.org/stream/storygondwana00tempgoog/storygondwana00tempgoog_djvu.txt


https://www.boloji.com/articles/51513/raj-gonds-of-adilabad-a-study

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Rock Cut Cave Temples of Adavi Somanapalli

Rock Cut Cave Temples of Adavi Somanapalli locally known as Nainag Gullu located in a forest and one needs to walk 4km from Thadicherla on the hillock of Adavi Somanapalli, Malhar Rao Mandal, located 22km away from Manthani in Bhupalapally district, Telangana State, India.

Dates back to 5th - 6th century AD. To reach the caves, one has to trek through a jungle path from the Kataram–Manthani highway.

These are a group of four rock-cut cave temples facing west on the banks of Manair river. Locally, these shivalayas are called Naina Gullu. Unfortunately, it is partially in ruins owing to the inferior quality of the rock stone and natural calamities. These rock-cut temples resemble the famous cave temples of Moghalrajpuram near Vijayawada constructed by the Vishnukundins.

They were initially jain caves that were later converted into a Lord Shiva temple.

The first two temples have an ‘Ardhamandapa’, the ornate gateway or open hall that leads into the ‘Garbhagriha’ or sanctum sanctorum. “The striking feature is the ceiling with coloured paintings. Most of the paintings are lost, with with only traces of black, red, blue & yellow figurines remaining. We can make out scantilydressed men and women only till the thighs. These are richly adorned with crowns, necklaces, leaf-shaped earrings, heavy bracelets and yagnopavita or the sacred thread. We can also faintly see dancers, courtesans, battle-scenes, horsedrawn chariots, archers, palaces etc. The murals painted in the first rock-cut cave depict people in the kingly attire, archers, armed personnel, dancers, horses, palaces etc. The murals reminisce the style of Ajanta in Maharashtra. The second cave houses the sculpture of Mahishasuramardhini, which is in ruins.

The third rockcut temple only has an Ardhamandapa housing the statues of Lord Ganapati & a Dwarapalaka. The fourth temple has an incomplete inscription on the outer pillar of the Ardhamandapa. The inscription is in Telugu which belongs to either 10th or 11th century AD. 

The caves of Adavi Somanapalli under Malhar Rao Mandal that come alive only during Maha Shivarathri festival is otherwise disconnected from mainstream of life

Feb 25, 2018: 9th century rock art on temple whitewashed during shiva rathri celebrations. Following which, the State Archaeological Department swung into action and prepared a proposal to protect the indigenous art forms of the temple.

https://www.thehansindia.com/posts/index/Telangana/2019-02-07/Precious-murals-languish-in-neglect/489694

http://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/articleshow/63064094.cms?utm_source=contentofinterest&utm_medium=text&utm_campaign=cppst

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Basheer Bagh Gunfoundry

Basheer Bagh Gunfoundry also known as Top ka Sancha is located in Basheer Bagh, Abids Road, Nampally (Mandal), Hyderabad District, Telangana State, India. The historic Aliya High School for Boys and Mehboobia College for Girls, both are opposite to Gunfoundry, across the main road that leads to Abids (in south)

The Gunfoundry was built in the year 1795 CE during the Asaf Jahi period by a renowned French Engineer Monsieur Raymond who had established a cannon-manufacturing factory here. Residential colonies have come up around the site, and only a part of Gunfoundry remains.

Some of the guns Raymond cast can be seen in the small gun park on the meridian of the road in front of the Assembly building. Much of the massive gun foundry walls fell due to lack of repair and maintenance over time.

Massive brick walls and cubicles which are supported by brick and mortar arches at ground level, and consists of brick kiln-like space underneath are what remain of the original foundry. This is the only surviving Gunfoundry established in the 18th Century CE, in the Nizam’s State of Hyderabad.

The original brick walls of Gunfoundry were approximately 50 feet high with a tapered portion commencing above 25 feet. The binding material used is lime mortar while the wall surfaces were covered with lime mortar on the exterior and interior.

At a time when the French Revolution was at its peak in France (1789-1790), impacting the entire civilised world with its ideals of Liberty, Equality and Fraternity, there was in Hyderabad an intrepid French General in the service of the second Asif Jah, Nizam Ali Khan, who with his indomitable courage and skills of diplomacy, established a contingent of native army personnel trained on French model that became a strong instrument of warfare to serve the Hyderabad State. The fact that these army men wore headgear similar to the Cap of Liberty, a symbol of the great French Revolution, shows how this French commander wanted to replicate the values of revolutionary France in distant Hyderabad. The guns and cannons he made, after establishing an arsenal and a foundry, became so famous that never in the country, before or after, were such quality ammunition ever made. The indomitable French general behind that contingent was Michel Joachim Marie Raymond, popularly known as Francois Raymond or Monsieur Raymond. To the Muslims, he was Musa Rahim, and to the Hindus, he was Musa Ram

During the last quarter of the 18th century, this enterprising French adventurer, Raymond, came to India as a merchant. But soon he joined as a soldier and served a few native states, before he finally reached Hyderabad to form a native regiment. Here he rose to become its commander and established considerable French influence in the court of the Nizam by winning his trust. Raymond’s passionate commitment to the work he discharged and loyalty to the Nizam were such that his influence on the Nizam continued unabated, till death, even though the British had taken over vast territories of the Circars from the Nizam in 1766 and established their hegemony in Hyderabad court after the eclipse of the French power.

Jan 31, 2017 :"The tourists can visit the site by taking the keys from us," said Mr K. Padmanabha, the deputy director of archaeology and museums. He said the department was keeping the premises locked because people throw garbage and spoiling the facade.

Raymond Tomb
When Raymond died in 1798, a tomb made of black granite was erected in Saroornagar, about 10 kilometers away from Hyderabad. The place is on top of a hillock in Mussa Ram Bagh, Malakpet. It is about 60 meters long, 30 meters wide, and 10 meters high. The initials “JR” are carved into it. The tomb has long been a symbol of great respect from the people and the dynasty and until now, people from all over the city still pay their respects for the great Frenchman on his death anniversary by lighting incense sticks near the tomb. Another attraction that can also be found near the tomb is the French Garden, located less than a kilometer away. It is the place where Raymond and his men were stationed. Now, it is a beautifully laid out lawn with green grass and flowers. There are also remnants of the military barracks stationed there during Raymond’s time.

In October 2001, the monument collapsed due to heavy rain, and also, lack of maintenance. The state government had it renovated, however, and given a facelift, as well as a brand new pavilion. On April 14, 2003, it was again showcased to senior officials of the tourism and archaeology departments. The renovation cost an estimated Rs 500,000, a small price to pay for the continued existence of one of Hyderabad’s enduring attractions.

https://www.hyd.co.in/raymond-tomb/

https://www.deccanchronicle.com/nation/current-affairs/010217/key-to-gunfoundry-is-the-biggest-mystery.html

https://www.thehindu.com/society/history-and-culture/michel-joachim-marie-raymond-raymonds-tomb/article23936147.ece

https://heritage.telangana.gov.in/monuments/gunfoundry/

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Toli Masjid

Toli Masjid is located in Ramsingh Pura of the Karwan area of the Old City, on the road which connects Golconda Fort to Purana Pul, Hyderabad, Telangana State, India. It is popularly known as Damri Masjid among the local communities of this region. It is situated on the way to Charminar and just 2km from the Golconda Fort. It is the finest example of Qutub Shahi architecture. On ranks of architecture, this mosque scales next after Mecca Masjid of old city of Hyderabad. The Archeological Survey of India has declared this mosque as heritage site. It received the INTACH award.

In 1671 AD, Toli Masjid or Damri Masjid was built during the region of Abdullah Qutb Shah by Mir Musa Khan Mahaldar. He used the assistance of the royal architect of Sultan Abdullah Qutub Shah and the architect Mecca Masjid of old city of Hyderabad for building this particular mosque. According to the historians and local legends, in the royal records known as "Gulzar-e-Asafia", there is a special chapter that mentions that while the royal architect was built in a successful manner Mecca Masjid, he was granted one damdi/damri (coin) out of each and every rupee spend on it. The collected sum of amount was thus used by Musa Khan in order to construct Toli Masjid. So this mosque is also known as Damri Masjid by the locals.

It is listed as a state protected monument.The lands endowed to the mosque have been encroached, and the mosque is in a neglected condition.

In Toli Mosque, all the festive days and religious important events are marked with grand celebration with full participation of the local residents and people from both the states of Andhra Pradesh and Telangana. Muslim people is large number attend the Friday prayer with lot of dedication and commitment in a religious manner.

Architecture

The mosque displays considerable Hindu influences in it's style. These include the use of excessive ornamentation, as well as elements such as elephant-tusk brackets and pot-shaped bases for the minarets. The niches in the post and lintel style are similar to those in temples used to accommodate images. Additionally, the parapet wall is decorated with miniature minarets just as miniature shikharas are seen in temples

With a high plinth, Toli Masjid is perfectly built on a high raised platform. The mosque is largely divided into two big halls. It is to be remembered that the outer halls has five-arched openings. On the other hand, among five outer arches, the middle arch is wider slightly and more uniquely ornate. It is to be highly noted that two minarets of approximately 20 meters each rightly flank the edifice with a lot of perfection. On top, the parapets comprise a set of miniature arches with screens of perforated shapes of different special designs. With beautiful lotus medallions in the spandrels, there are five attractive arches. The unique inscription in the hall of prayer reveals that Musa Khan built this building structure for religious purpose. The upper portion of this particular mosque is attractively well-decorated in a religious manner. The parapet comprises of a set of arched with jali screens of different styles and patterns. All these said features adds additional beauty and attractiveness to this mosque when compared with other mosque of this region and rest of India. The local people give good respect to its architectural significance and have taken steps to preserve in its historical form in all means to a great extent.

Toli Masjid Stepwell

While the Telangana government restored the 17th century Bansilalpet stepwell to its former glory, the structure surrounding the 350-year-old stepwell, built as part of Toli Masjid during the reign of 7th Qutb Shah ruler Abduallah Qutub Shah, is in shambles.

As one enters the open premises of Toli Masjid in Ramsingh Pura of the Karwan area of the Old City, debris can be seen floating inside a walled structure filled with stagnated algae-covered green water.

The stepwell, which is approximately 35 metres deep and has a flight of around 130 steps inside, is now almost invisible because its surface is filled with algae water, liquor bottles, and furniture foam floating on the well's surface.

The stepwell, which is protected by the state heritage department, was built to supply water to the mosque. Locals recalled how water from the stepwell was used for drinking purposes around 50 years ago, and how children used to swim in the well, which was now dying slowly.

"People from nearby liquor shops have been dumping liquor bottles and even foam from the surrounding furniture workshops," said Abu Bakar Bakulka, pointing to the stepwell.

"Because the premises are unattended and unsupervised, there is no one to intervene and protect this centuries-old structure. People come and throw garbage after late evenings when no one is around."

Afzaluddin Farooqui, joint secretary of Toli Masjid Committee, stated that a complaint was filed with the relevant authorities about three years ago, but there was no response and no further action was taken.

"We filed a written complaint with the heritage department, requesting that the entire mosque area be protected and the stepwell be restored. Because the monument is a government-protected site, all activities are prohibited. We attempted to clean the stepwell but were denied due to the restrictions. The authorities are not taking any action, and we are not permitted to do any cleaning. The situation gets worse during monsoons when the stepwell overflows. The aquifers are still active inside the well, and if it is restored to its original state, water can be provided for the mosque again," Farooqui explained.

Authorities had only placed a concrete sheet over a portion of the stepwell, beneath which was a massive hollow indicating how the stepwell was collapsing on the inside.

https://www.deccanchronicle.com/featured/071222/350-year-old-stepwell-in-hyderabads-old-city-begs-for-attention.html

https://www.omastrology.com/indian-mosques/toli-masjid/

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Badshahi Ashoorkhana

Badshahi Ashurkhana or Asurkhana or Ashoorkhana is located near Charminar in Hyderabad, Telangana State, India. 

An asoorkhana is a public space for Shia Muslims to gather on Muharram and mourn the martyrdom of Imam Hussain, the grandson of Prophet Muhammed, in the battle of Karbala.

1591: This ashoorkhana, used to be hospital called Dar-ul-Shifa built by Mohammed Quli Qutub Shah in 1591, constructed at the same time as the Charminar and Macca Masjid. For many years, the elaborate and imposing building that originally overlooked the Musi River was used as a hospital. However, the Nizam later moved the building for expansion purposes, and this location became Alawa -E-Sartouq.

In Arabic, and derived from it in Urdu, Turkish and Persian, dar al-shifa means "house of health", i.e. "hospital".

In 1594, Quli Qutb Shah later ordered that the relic (tauq) be incorporated into an Alam and install it at the old Darulshifa Hospital, now Ashoorkhana-E-Alawa-E- Sartouq Mubarak. Hundreds of devout Muslims visit the ashoorkhana. "The faithful come here in the hope that the water they drink would be beneficial for their health. Thursdays are particularly busy," according to Mir Yaver Ali, the ashoorkhana's caretaker. 

1611: The brilliantly coloured tile-mosaic decoration was completed under Abdullah Qutb Shah in 1611.

About 1,500 devotees visit the Ashoorkhana every Thursday. It is kept open round the clock during Muharram, and about 10,000 people visit it each of the first 10 days of the month of mourning.

The architecture with stone columns is unique in many aspects. The structure is built to minute details, special care has been given to proportions. Its high ceiling, gives the building a magnificent look. The vibrant enamel tiles and intricate hexagon designs have been maintained over four centuries.

The building consists of a Kaman, Naqqar Khana (where ceremonial drums are beaten), Niyaz Khana (where visitors are fed), Sarai Khana (place to rest), Abdar Khana (drinking water is stored), the chabutra (platform) and a guard room. The front aisle is made entirely of wood, as are the panelling of the flanking walls and the façade. All of these structures are now in various stages of dilapidation, neglect and disuse.

From a distance, the inside of the ashoorkhana seemed to be a decrepit, unassuming structure with what looked like crumbling coloured wallpaper. But a closer look revealed that the crumbling wallpaper was, in fact, enamelled mosaic tiles inlaid in ingenious Islamic-style patterns, which have covered the ashoorkhana’s interior walls since 1611. Created in haft-rang(seven colours) mainly with lapis blue and white tiles, the mosaic is exquisitely lain with Indian tones of mustard yellow, warm terracotta and vibrant green, forming incredible patterns that depict Shia Muslim symbology and are linked to the battle of Karbala. As art historians George Michell and Mark Zebrowski point out in their book Architecture and Art of the Deccan Sultanates, this is one of the most original decorative schemes of its kind anywhere in the Muslim world and has survived in stellar condition for over four centuries. The Qutb Shahis of Golconda were said to be the ultimate Deccani patrons of tilework and like their Turkish ancestors, were fervent Shias.

The tiles, arranged in large panels almost 3 metres high and over a metre wide had us craning our necks to decode the intricate artistry of the medieval Islamic civilisation of the Deccan. One of these represents a large calligraphic alam a religious metal standard (akin to a banner) that symbolises those carried by Hussain and his followers in battle which features bold, exquisite Arabic script, both right side round and mirror-reversed.

Along the adjacent walls lie staggered mosaic hexagons connected by arabesque swirls, and a panel showcasing what’s referred to as the ‘pot of plenty’ with flowers and vegetation emanating from a vase. To my eyes, it also seems to visually represent the overarching theme of the alam and the ashoorkhana being enduring symbols of remembrance.

The royal chronicles of the Qutb Shahi era mention tangible gold alams studded with jewels, but these no longer exist. Nevertheless, impressive brass alams decorated with fine Thuluth script, which post-date the Qutb Shahi period, are now brought out and installed only during the holy month of Muharram.

After the fall of the Qutb Shahi dynasty, during the rule of the Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb, in 1178 Hijri (about 1764 AD), the Ashoorkhana was converted into a bandikhana. For 80 years, it was used as a stable where horses were kept, before it was restored as a place of worship by the then mutawalli Mir Nawazish Ali Khan.

In 1908, the Ashoorkhana was badly affected by the Musi floods. The ashoorkhana was in six feet of water, and the tiles were completely submerged. These were later repaired and repainted.

The eight wooden pillars were reconstructed and the alams were reinstalled. During this time, the main entrance, Bab-e-Faiz-e-Imam-e-Alamiyan, was also constructed.

As per news reports, the caretaker of the ashoorkhana, Mir Abbas Ali Moosavi has been struggling with renovations to the premises due to political interference. But perhaps what is most crucial to preserving the cultural fabric of cities like Hyderabad is an awareness often supported by the research of historians like Lasania and his community of brimming academics of the narratives, art history and architecture that is all around us, coaxing us to seek beauty in structures long-forgotten.

Restoration

In 2011, the High Court pulled up the then state government and ordered removal of the encroachments inside the premises. A year later, the Central government gave Rs 80 lakh as grant to restore and repair the building. 

Sep 20, 2015 : Portion of Badshahi Ashoorkhana collapses

July 15, 2021 : Acting on directives of the High Court over a PIL regarding encroachments at the Baadshahi Ashoorkhana, KS Sreenivasa Raju, in-charge Director of Heritage Telangana, GHMC Commissioner Lokesh Kumar and representatives of the Aga Khan Trust for Culture, visited the monument near the Madina Circle in Old City on Wednesday. The Department of Heritage secured the monument for its protection and to prevent any encroachment. It now plans to undertake repairs to restore the originality of the historic structure

May 20, 2023 : The Telangana State government signed another memorandum of understanding (MoU) with the Aga Khan Trust for Culture (AKTC) to restore Saidanima’s tomb, Badhshahi Ashurkhana and Shaikpet Sarai. Of the three monuments, two are currently inaccessible to the public.

https://www.newindianexpress.com/cities/hyderabad/2021/jul/15/telangana-heritage-department-secures-ashoorkhana-2330237.html

https://www.thehansindia.com/telangana/telangana-government-inks-mou-with-aktc-to-restore-three-more-historic-sites-798214

https://www.deccanchronicle.com/nation/in-other-news/071016/hyderabad-ashoorkhana-has-historys-mark.html

https://www.joinpaperplanes.com/the-mosaic-tiled-badshahi-ashoorkhana-in-hyderabad/

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Saidanima’s tomb

Saidani Ma Tomb, also spelt Saidani Maa Tomb, is a tomb located near Hussain Sagar, Hyderabad, Telangana State, India.

The tomb of Saidanima was built for his mother by Sardar Abdul Haq, who also bore the title Diler Jang (1853–1896). He was originally from the Bombay Province (run by the British crown) and rose to prominence in the erstwhile state of Hyderabad, in the late nineteenth century. Jang became the princely state’s home secretary and then changed course to become the director of the Nizam’s State Railways in 1885.

It is somewhat in isolation from most historical monuments and is a landmark monument which often goes unnoticed unless one stops for a few seconds and notices his/her surroundings.

The structure’s onion-shaped dome placed over an octagonal base marks the tomb, points out Sibgatullah Khan, an architecture student from the city who runs Deccan Archive. He pointed out that panels of geometric cut plaster stand between the lobed arches, which rest on double baluster columns. The upper chamber of the monument has arches which are clearly drawn from the Qutb Shahi era, whereas the ground floor arches appear to be of Mughal inspiration. 

One of state protected monuments in Telangana

The Saidanima Tomb is one of the state protected monuments in Telangana. Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) in Telangana has identified 500 state protected monuments.

Following is the list of some state protected monuments located in Hyderabad Makkah Masjid
Badshahi Ashurkhana
Old Gate of Dabirpura
Mushirabad Mosque
Toli Masjid
Gunfoundry
Khazana Building
Shamsheerkota
Qutb Shahi Tombs
Tara Mati’s Baradari
Prema Mati’s Mosque
Akkanna’s Sarai
Shaikpet mosque and sarai
Hakim’s Tomb
Paigah Tombs
Dargah Hazratha Saidani-Ma-Saheba

Restoration

March 28, 2021 : A historical well, claimed to be built in the Nizam era, on the premises of Saidanima tomb in the Tank Bund area has been in a dilapidated state for a long time now. Fortunately, the State government is planning to take up its restoration. The well once used to supply drinking water, but is now just a dumping ground, said Twitter user Syed Meraj Nawab, on a post tagging MAUD principal secretary Arvind Kumar. Kumar responded to the tweet, saying, “We will take it up.” The State government had recently embarked upon large-scale restoration of stepwells and historical wells in Telangana.

May 19, 2023: A Memorandum of Understanding (MoU) has been signed between the Hyderabad Metropolitan Development Authority (HMDA), Telangana Department of Heritage, and the Aga Khan Trust for Culture to restore Saidanima Tomb, Badshahi Asoorkhana, and Sheikhpet Sarai.

https://www.newstap.in/city-news/telanganas-pact-with-aga-khan-trust-to-restore-saidanima-tomb-badshahi-asoorkhana-sheikhpet-sarai-1477056

https://www.siasat.com/hyderabad-saidanimas-tomb-to-be-restored-through-aga-khan-trust-2487500/

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Qutb Shahi Heritage Park

Qutb Shahi Heritage Park in Hyderabad spread over 106-acres is located in the Ibrahim Bagh, close to the famous Golconda Fort in Hyderabad, Telangana State, India.

There are a total of 80 monuments, including 40 mausoleums of rulers of the Quli Qutb Shahi dynasty (1518-1687) , 23 mosques, seven baolis (step-wells), a hamam, pavilions, tanks, wells, garden structures and enclosure walls.

Qutub Shahi tombs were planned and built by Qutub Shahis. These were renovated by Salar Jung III, Mir Yousuf Ali Khan in the 19th century. Constructed on an elevated platform, these tombs are made up of grey granite. These are dome-structured and have quadrangular shape. Each tomb is surrounded by pointed arches and is of 9-15 meters in height from the platform. These pointed arches also add on to the beauty of these structures. Each tomb is also decorated with beautiful ornamentation. 

The most important yet the most modest tomb is considered to be of Sultan Quli Qutub-ul-Mulk, who is the founder of Qutub Shahi Dynasty. He not only built his tomb himself but is also said to be the longest supervisor of this magnificent architectural project. It was also his decision to build the tombs on non-ruling royal family members as well such as of nephews, nieces, and sisters.

The Qutb Shahi tombs complex consists of 30 tombs, mosques and a mortuary bath. The tombs belong to the rulers of the Qutb Shahi Dynasty, their queens and children and the nobles who faithfully served them. It contains the epigraphically documented tombs of five of the dynasty's seven sultans, as well as those of another four members of the royal family, spanning the 130-year period from 1543 to 1672. The Qutb Shahi tombs collectively constitute an outstanding example of an Indo-Muslim dynastic necropolis and is the most extensive and best epigraphically documented in all of India.

Qutb Shahi dynasty ruled the region from 1518 A.D. to 1687 A.D. Qutb Shahi Islamic Sultanate was one of the five prominent dynasties that emerged in the Deccan following the downfall of the Bahmani Dynasty in 1518 A.D. Seven rulers of the Dynasty ruled for 170 years and successfully resisted the Mughal attack till 1687 A.D. It was the last kingdom to be absorbed in the expanding Mughal Empire.

Qutb Shahi monuments provide a unique testimony to the vibrant cosmopolitanism that characterized the medieval period in India and in the Deccan region in particular. Other Deccani sultanates were similarly multi-ethnic and multi-lingual, but the Qutb Shahi Sultanate appears to have been at the forefront of this cosmopolitanism. The founder of the dynasty and many influential nobles were immigrants from Iran. The success of the Qutb Shahi state depended critically on the ability of these "westerners" (gharbian) to form alliances both with members of the deeply rooted class of Deccani Muslims, and the local Telugu-speaking Hindu elite. In a manner that is more striking than at any other site, the Qutb Shahi monuments reveal the innovative and inspired blending of Persianate and Indic cultures that flowed from the successful integration of this multi-ethnic society.

The group of Qutb Shahi tombs constitutes an outstanding example of an Indo-Muslim dynastic necropolis. Although many other Indo-Muslim dynasties also produced such necropolises, that of the Qutb Shahis is unique on three counts. First, it is a more complete dynastic complex than any other in India, as it unites in one location the tombs of five of the dynasty's seven rulers as well as four other identified members of the royal family. Second, its chronological span of 130 years is longer than that of any other documented necropolis in India. Third, because of these first two factors, the necropolis provides unique testimony not only for the stylistic development of Qutb Shahi architecture, but also for the dynastic politics within the family.

Because the Qutb Shahi necropolis includes nine tombs of members of the royal family, all firmly datable by means of their epitaph inscriptions, the complex affords the best controlled means of understanding the developing Qutb Shahi architectural style and its chronology. The earliest tomb-that of the dynasty's founder Sultan Quli (d.1543)-reveals its dependence on late Bahmani traditions of tomb design, while the tomb of the next to last ruler, Abdullah (d.1672) exhibits all of the distinctive qualities of the fully formed Qutb Shahi style. In between, every intermediate stage is represented, and several unusual variants as well, including the tomb of Muhammad Quli (d.1612) with its Iranian-inspired post and beam porticoes (talar), and the so-called tomb of Jamsheed (d.1550) with its unusual two-storeyed octagonal plan.

The complex also provides invaluable evidence shedding light on the nature of dynastic politics within the Qutb Shahi family. Tombs were built not only for the ruling sultans, but also for their wives and consorts, and for sons who were excluded from the succession. The spatial relationships between these various tombs are often highly instructive. Thus, until the 1620s, the original necropolis was confined to the southwestern block of the present enclosure and contained the monumental tombs of Sultan Quli (d.1543), Ibrahim (d. 1580), and Muhammad Quli (d.1612). Additionally, there was the small tomb of Ibrahim's son, Mirza Muhammad Amin (d.1596), which occupied the same terrace as his father's tomb, and numerous smaller tombs lacking inscriptions and most likely belonging to various members of the Qutb Shahi elite. Although this area also contains two structures that are popularly identified as the tombs of the Sultans Jamsheed (d. 1550) and Subhan (d.1550) -with whom Ibrahim fought a succession dispute-neither contains epitaphs confirming this identification, and moreover, they are built in the fully developed style of the mid-seventeenth century, making it impossible that they should belong to these two rulers. At least during the sixteenth century, it would appear that Jamsheed and his son Subhan were excluded from the royal necropolis, as if to deny that their reigns had ever occurred.

Restoration

Qutb Shahi Tombs also known as ‘Seven Tombs’ get UNESCO World Heritage recognition for its conservation of six stepwells (Baolis). UNESCO awarded the 2022 award of distinction to the royal necropolis.

In January 2013, an MoU was signed between the Department of Archaeology and Museums (now Heritage Telangana), the Quli Qutb Shah Urban Development Authority, Aga Khan Foundation and the Aga Khan Trust for Culture for conservation and landscape development of the tomb complex. The funds came from AKTC, Tata Trust, US Ambassadors Fund for Cultural Preservation, IndiGo CSR, and the German Embassy. No funds have been sought from the government.

In recovering the stepwells and associated aqueducts from a state of neglect and partial ruins, the project has revived the function of the historic waterworks of irrigating the surrounding orchards and forests, thus enabling the holistic restoration of the historic landscape,” said the UN body.

Ratish Nanda is the Projects Director of Aga Khan Trust for Culture, India. The landscape master plan for Qutb Shahi Tombs was developed by architect M. Shaheer, who envisaged the 106-acre complex into three zone the archaeological zone, a visitor facility zone and an ecological zone. “We have not buried archaeological remains, rather have tried to preserve the sanctity in the best way possible,” said Nanda, speaking about the elaborate design patterns involving dragons and birds that were unearthed.

But when you restore a landscape, you don’t just look at the monuments. An exhaustive tree survey was undertaken that mapped 3,300 existing trees covering 72 species. Over 2,000 tree saplings have been planted along the edge of the site to create a natural buffer.

Over 2,500 measured drawings, condition reports, topographical survey of the 106 acres and more went into the Hyderabad restoration plan. And you cannot rebuild history without archives. A sustained effort at archival research has already led to the collection of over 500 images—some dating back to the 1860s. While a major part of the restoration, which began in 2013, has been completed, the pandemic and multiple litigations have pushed the deadline from 10 years to 14 years now.

The stepwells Badi Baoli, Hamam Baoli, Baug Baoli, Mashriqi (eastern) Baoli, Maghribi (western) Baoli and Eidgah Baoli were all believed to have been constructed between 16th and 17th century under the first ruler of Qutb Shahi dynasty Sultan Qutb-ul-Mulk.

19th April 2018 : Known as one of the largest necropoleis in the world, Qutb Shahi Heritage park is open for public viewing after an elaborate restoration. It is said to have taken 50 layers of whitewash to surface the intricate detailing of this 16th-century seven-arch arcade. This heritage park also has a Persian Hamam which was used as a mortuary bath in olden days and is considered as one of the finest Persian Hamams. Ever since it opened its gates for public viewing on April 18th, it’s being thronged by visitors and historians who are gladly exploring the beauty of the monuments. The Qutub Shahi Tombs are also undergoing a restoration and the idea is to revive the natural architecture from the times they were built. The heritage park is perfect for the individuals who are interested in exploring the historical significance of the city. We think you should quickly make a visit to the park and witness the grandeur of the monuments that withstood the test of time.

Sep 15, 2022: Newly-arrived US Consul General Jennifer Larson and IT Minister KT Rama Rao on Thursday visited the historic Qutb Shahi Heritage Park Complex to mark the completion of a $112,560 conservation project funded by the US Consulate and conducted by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture. The project supports the conservation of five stepwells inside the Tombs Complex, which will conserve 15 million litres of rainwater during monsoon and provide for the water needs of the 106-acre Heritage Park.

Timings are from 9.30 am to 4.30 pm and closed on Friday.

The entry fee for the tombs is only Rs. 10 per person and for children it is Rs. 5 per person. If interested in taking photographs, you are required to pay minimal fee Rs. 20 for each camera.

https://theprint.in/feature/move-over-golconda-charminar-aga-khan-trust-is-bringing-back-to-life-a-hidden-hyderabad-necropolis/1132561/

https://whc.unesco.org/en/tentativelists/5573/

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Idgah Baoli Stepwell

Idgah Baoli Stepwell is located on the premises of the Qutb Shahi tombs in the Ibrahim Bagh (garden precinct), close to the famous Golconda Fort in Hyderabad, Telangana State, India.

The often-missed Idgah Baoli or stepwell, is in fact a massive monument built before most of the other things in the Qutb Shahi tombs. 

The Idgah Baoli is perhaps the grandest stepwell of all at Qutub Shahi Heritage Park built with hand-dressed granite stones with archway access on the south side. This baoli has a 2.8 million litres of water capacity that was revived.

In the marvellous garden of a stucco work necropolis of the Qutb Shahi tombs, it is a deep stepwell of dressed granite. While curvy flowy lines and stucco decorations are the norm in the tombs complex, the stepwell is all about straight lines and minimalistic design. Recently restored to the way it appears in archival images from 19th century by the Department of Archaeology and Museums, the effort has been aided by US Ambassador’s Fund for Cultural Preservation. 

“It is probably one of the earliest structures here, along with the Idgah and might pre-date the necropolis. The other boalis (stepwells) are built on rocky outcrops. This one is built into the earth with huge blocks of hand-dressed stone blocks and masonry,” informs Ratish Nanda of Aga Khan Trust for Culture, which is working in coordination with the State government to restore the tombs complex.

The Qutb Shahi tombs is the royal necropolis of the Qutb Shahi or Golconda dynasty (1518-1687), which once ruled from the Golconda fort, and later founded Hyderabad in 1591. The tombs complex comprises nearly 100 structures, including tombs, gardens, pavilions, a Turkish bath (Hamam)and mosques. The site is currently being restored by the Aga Khan Trust for Culture (AKTC) in association with the Telangana Department of Heritage.

The site is becoming a major attraction for tourists thanks to its restoration by the AKTC. The Qutb Shahi tombs was historically connected to the Golconda fort, which was a walled-city before Hyderabad was founded in 1591. However, today, due to local encroachments on the site, the pathway connecting the fort and the tombs complex has been built upon.

The Qutb Shahi tombs site has six Baolis or stepwells. According to experts, the water bodies were all connected to the Durgam Cheruvu (lake) in Hyderabad historically. Unfortunately, the old water channels connecting the lake to the stepwells have been lost due to modern encroachments or ‘development’. Unlike the other stepwells, the Idgah Baoli was built with fully dressed granite stones, which gives the impression that it was built as a monument.

AKTC experts working at the Qutb Shahi tombs believe that the Eidgah and its Baoli in fact are the earliest buildings at the site. It is also believed that the Baoli was built for the Eidgah or public usage during Eid. The first major tomb in the necropolis is that of Sultan Quli, the founding king of the Golconda empire (1518-43). Originally from Hamadan in Iran, he came to India towards the end of the 15th century, eventually founding the empire. 

The Baolis in the Qutb Shahi tombs complex were all built at different times and stages by the kings (and others) who are buried at the site. Earlier excavations at the necropolis also found that a small informal settlement near the Hamam that predates the site.
 

https://www.thehindu.com/news/cities/Hyderabad/stepwell-in-qutb-shahi-tombs-complex-restored/article37481798.ece

https://www.siasat.com/hyderabad-the-idgah-baoli-in-qutb-shahi-tombs-is-an-architectural-gem-2469019/

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Badi Baoli Stepwell

Badi Baoli Stepwell is located  on the premises of the Qutb Shahi tombs, one of the first to come up near the entrance is the Badi Baoli (step well), built more than 400 years ago by Sultan Qutb-ul-Mulk, the first ruler of the Qutb Shahi dynasty.

The huge quadrangle edifice, which looks like anything but a well has been brought back to life after a part of it had collapsed due to heavy rains, whose conservation was supported by Tata Trusts, that was revived to its former glory from the brink of total collapse.

The Badi Baoli, that literally translates as the 'big stepwell' is one of six historic stepwells located at the Qutb Shahi Heritage Park.

Since its restoration in 2016, almost 2 crore liters stored in the Badi baoli have been used for construction and irrigation projects.

“The six baolis, and one well, are strategically placed around the tombs so all the rainwater can drain into them. Over the years, a lot of alterations were made to the grading levels. Therefore, during our efforts, we placed trench drains and catch basins to ensure that rain water reached the wells,” said Yoshowanth.

The Aga Khan Trust for Culture (AKTC) in association with the Telangana Department of Heritage has been working on restoring the Qutb Shahi tombs to their full glory for the past many years. The six baolis Badi, Hamam, Bagh, Western, Idgah and Eastern are all fully restored.

https://www.siasat.com/hyderabad-6-baolis-being-restored-in-qutb-shahi-heritage-park-2385242/

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Zafar Baoli Stepwell

Zafar Baoli stepwell is located inside Khammam Fort built by Kakatiya rulers in 950 AD . Khammam Municipal Corporation which in along with the district administration and archaeology department is restoring the 13th Century Zafar Baoli or stepwell in Telangana.

The officials want to make this well located inside the Khammam Fort a tourist attraction without affecting the original structure and design. Neglect over a period of time has damaged this historic place and made it dirty. Once a source of drinking water, the well turned into a dumping ground as the locals dumped garbage in it.

The well measuring 60 feet in length, 20 in width and 60 in depth was constructed by the Kakatiya rulers and is located in the southern part of the Fort which itself is spread in four square kilometres.

The original objective of this well was to provide drinking water to people and soldiers living in the fort. Though the construction took place under the Kakatiya regime it was developed by the Nizams with help from the French when Jaffer-ud-doula was the Khammam tahsildar.

https://www.indianarrative.com/culture-news/13th-century-khammam-fort-in-telangana-being-spruced-up-to-woo-tourists-144200.html

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Morancha Vagu

Origin / Start : Bhupalpally Forest Area. 

End: Joins Maner River near Kalvapalle, Jayashankar Bhupalpally District.

Length: Around 45 Kms

Tributaries: Medi Vagu (Ramappa Lake), Poddaru Vagu (Ghanapuram Lake)

Tributaries of Morancha Vagu

Medi Vagu joins Morancha Vagu near Palampet, Mulugu District.

Poddaru Vagu joins Morancha Vagu near Ghanapur, Mulugu District.

Jul 27, 2023 - Telangana Rains
Jul 27 2023,  4 AM : Moranchapalli, Jayashankar Bhupalpally district
What started as a drizzle on the morning of July 26 turned into torrential rain by the night. “Moranchapalli was hit by rain like never before in the history of Telangana. It looks like rain, which we usually receive throughout the year, hit us on a single day, creating havoc. With a local stream, Moranchapalli Vagu, advancing towards village, The entire village with 300 houses with population of around 1900 was inundated by an increase in flood water levels in a stream in the suburbs, giving a sleepless night for all.” which wiped all their belongings, live stock, food and other assets. 

The villagers were forced to go to the roof-tops of their houses and trees since morning. Videos of the panic-stricken villagers making fervent appeals to the authorities to save them surfaced on social media that morning. Following the distress calls, the official machinery swung into action and dispatched NDRF teams along with inflatable rubber boats and other equipment to rescue them. 6 from Moranchapalli saved by Army copter

In a daring rescue operation amid heavy rains Indian Army helicopters and boats came to the aid of six trapped individuals in the Morancha stream in Nainpaka.

Read more at:

https://www.latestly.com/socially/india/news/telangana-rains-indian-army-helicopters-boats-carry-out-daring-rescue-operation-in-bhupalpally-district-save-stranded-villagers-amid-heavy-rains-watch-videos-5297114.html

Read more at:

https://www.latestly.com/socially/india/news/telangana-rains-indian-army-helicopters-boats-carry-out-daring-rescue-operation-in-bhupalpally-district-save-stranded-villagers-amid-heavy-rains-watch-videos-5297114.html

Jayashankar Bhupalpalli district witnessed very heavy to extremely heavy rainfall with the Chityal mandal recording the highest 616.5 mm rainfall in the district in the 24 hours, ending at 8 a.m. in the morning.

Four people got lost in the floods due to heavy rains. The bodies of three villagers have been retrieved and 1 still missing.

Thousands of acres of land were flooded with heavy sand and the irrigation potential of the fields was lost. Due to this, sand and stone casting the farmers have been severely distressed. It would cost them a lot to get their fields back to cultivable state.

The devastating impact of the floods has rendered many villagers unemployed, leaving them desperate for work opportunities.

https://www.newstap.in/telangana/moranchapalli-villagers-thank-kcr-for-saving-them-by-sending-choppers-boats-1487047

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August 6

 August 6, 2023 : Folk singer, activist Gummadi Vittal Rao aka Gaddar dies at 77 due to ill health.

August 6, 1969 – Telangana agitation that took place in Secunderabad market area, near Rajeshwar talkies, a student named Rabindranath was killed following which the TPS called for a bandh on August 7 in Secunderabad area.

August 6, 1945 : Hiroshima Day: Hiroshima was torn apart by the US atomic bomb attack, in which about 1,40,000 people died by the end of the year.

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August 5

August 5, 1948: Government troops and Razakars clashed near the village of Yelsangi on August 5, 1948, resulting in the deaths of 25 Razakars. 

https://uca.edu/politicalscience/home/research-projects/dadm-project/asiapacific-region/indiahyderabad-1947-1949/

August 5, 2019, the Home Minister and Bharatiya Janata Party (BJP) leader Amit Shah announced to revoke the Article 370 which gave 'special' status to the Jammu & Kashmir region. Shah announced that the state will be reorganised geographically.

https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/topic/article-370

August 5, 2020: The temple construction officially started again after a Bhumi pujan ceremony on 5 August 2020. Three-day long Vedic rituals were held ahead of the ground-breaking ceremony, which revolved around the installation of a 40 kg silver brick as the foundation stone by the Prime Minister of India, Narendra Modi.

August 5, 1962: Iconic Hollywood movie star Marilyn Monroe was found dead in her Los Angeles home at age 36 on this day in history, August 5, 1962.  The actress was discovered face down and lying nude on her bed holding a telephone in one hand, according to History.com

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Jampanna Vagu

Jampanna vagu / Laknavaram River / Sampangi Vagu joins Godavari river at Eturnagaram, Mulugu District.

Origin / Start : Bhupalpally Forest Range

End: Godavari River near Eturnagaram, Mulugu District

Length: Around 80 Kms

According to history, Jampanna was a tribal warrior and the son of tribal goddess Sammakka. The Jampanna Vagu took his name as he died in a battle fighting against the Kakatiyan Army in that stream.

Tribals believe that taking a holy dip in the water of Jampanna Vagu honours and reminds them of the sacrifice of their gods who saved them and also induces courage in their souls. There is a bridge constructed on top of Jampanna Vagu, known as the Jampanna Vagu Bridge.

According to a 13th-century tribal legend, some tribal leaders on a hunt found a newborn girl (Sammakka) enveloped in light playing amidst tigers. They took her to the tribal chief, who adopted and raised her as a leader. She later became the savior of the tribals of the region. She was married to Pagididda Raju, the tribal chief of the Koyas. The Kakatiyas (who ruled the region with its headquarters in Warangal City between 1000 AD and 1323 AD). Sammakka had two daughters and one son, Sarakka, Nagulamma, and Jampanna. King Prataprudra of the Kakatiyas imposed taxes on the Koya Tribe, which they could not pay. As a result, King Prataprudra declared war on the Koya Tribe. Pagididda Raju was killed in the ensuing battle forcing the grief-stricken Sammakka to pick up the fight with her daughter Saralamma, her son Jampanna and her son-in-law Govinda Raju. Sammakka had almost won when Saralamma died in the battle. Jampanna was mortally wounded and fell bleeding into Sampangi vaagu (stream). Legend has it that the stream turned red from the blood, and the vaagu was renamed "Jampanna Vaagu" in honor of Jampanna's sacrifice. Distraught, Sammakka retired to a hill called Chilakala Gutta and turned into a vermilion jar (Kumkum Bharani). To this day, the Koya tribe and devotees believe that Sammakka and Saralamma are manifestations of Adi Parashakti sent to protect them.

The jatara is a celebration to honor this sacrifice. The vermilion jar is brought to Medaram and washed in Jampanna Vaagu, followed by an offering of Jaggery to Sammakka and Saralamma.

Tributaries of Jampanna Vagu

Tummala vagu joins Jampanna vagu near Medaram, Mulugu District.

Kalyaniga Thogu joins Jampanna vagu near Padigapuram, Mulugu District.

Mathari Thogu joins Jampanna vagu near Padigapuram, Mulugu District.
Chinnapuram Thogu joins Jampanna vagu near Vengalapuram, Mulugu District.

Jalagalantha Thogu joins Jampanna Vagu near Muthapur

Vette Vagu join Jampanna Vagu near Pasra.

    Karlapalle Vagu joins Vette Vagu near Pasra.

Pedda Vagu joins Jampanna Vagu near Rangapur.

Sudda Vagu joins Jampanna Vagu near Rangapur.

Jul 27, 2023 - Telangana Rains

Unprecedented downpour on July 27, 2023 Wednesday night triggered flash floods in Mulugu district. At least 30 villages and hamlets in Eturnagaram, Mangapet and SS Tadwai mandals were inundated. Flood waters from Jampanna Vagu also inundated the famous Sammakka-Sarakka tribal shrine at Medaram in Tadwai mandal. Tribal leaders shifted idols and other material from the temple to a safe place.

With water overflowing Jamppanna vagu following heavy rains, two villages Kondai and Maliala of Eturnagaram mandal in Mulugu district were completely inundated with flood water.

As soon as people noticed heavy inflow of flood water into the villages, many of them saved their lives going on to the top of their houses. But around 20 members of the two villages are said to be washed away in the flood water.

The NDRF teams with the help of district administration and police were trying to rescue people from the village submerged in water from overflowing Jampanna Vagu, a rivulet. Villagers spent the night on roof-tops of a few houses, waiting for help. About 60-70 people are said to be stranded without food and water.

Telangana recorded the highest-ever rainfall in a single day with Mulugu district recording 649.8 mm by 8am on Thursday.

The highest rainfall of 64 cm was reported in Lakshmidevipet of Venkatapur mandal of Mulugu district. 51.5 cm of rainfall has been reported in Wajedu of Mulugu district.

Similarly, Chelpur, Regonda and Mogullapalli in the same district also logged the highest rainfall of the season – 475.8 mm, 467 mm and 394 mm respectivel

https://www.thehansindia.com/telangana/heavy-rains-in-telangana-state-govt-seeks-army-help-811654

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Dakshin Ke Badrinath Temple, Hyderabad

Dakshin Badrinath replica of original Badrinath Temple popularly known Badrivishal Dham temple is located 40 kms from hyderabad in Plot No. 33/34, Sai Baba Enclave, GPR Housing Venture, Banda Mailaram, Mulug, Medichal District, Telangana 502336, India.

This temple for lord Badrinarayan has been constructed by Uttarakhand Kalyankari Sanstha, a registered society formed by people of Uttarakhand residing or serving in Hyderabad.

The two-storey temple occupies 6,750 square feet and stands 50 feet tall, same as the temple in Badrinath, Uttarakhand. The ground floor has a hall which can seat 350 people.

On the first floor is the idol of Lord Badrinath. It will also have idols of Lord Ganesh, Kuber, Balram, Godeess Lakshmi, Nar-Narayan, Narada, and Garuda. Separate temples have been built for Lord Ganesh, Goddess Lakshmi and the Navagrahas in the premises.

The temple's elevation will be 100% as the original Badrinath temple in Uttarakhand which will be a replica of Shri Badri Vishal Dham, in Hyderabad, State of Telangana.

Uttarakhand Kalyankari Sanstha for the first time in the history of Hyderabad introducing to the people of Telangana the culture and traditions of Garhwal & Kumaon of Uttarakhand State. The Telangana State is now Karm Bhoomi for nearly 25,000 Uttarakhandi Families residing since four generations.

Temple Timings

Monday to Friday - 8 AM to 12.30 PM and 4 PM to 7.30 APM

Saturday and Sunday - 8 AM to 12.30 PM and 3 PM to 7.30 APM

Phone Number :  09866396287

http://dakshinkebadrinath.com/

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